Anticipating a trip to Ethiopia, and perhaps Taiwan and Ghana beginning mid-September, I thought I’d repost my experiences, experiences which to date had only been sent out by email and a couple of previous blogs to a long list of friends, colleagues & acquaintances. Now these experiences are being offered here on Blogger & Facebook.
The following was my first "impressions" piece about being in Ghana:
Well, hello India, it's nice to back! So much of what I see and experience here is straight out of my experience of India. Being as I absolutely fell in love with India, you can guess where this is going then! :)
So some of the flora and fauna is pretty familiar, as is the architecture, climate, roads, etc. Some important differences are however that there are many more cars and trucks than motorbikes, whereas in India, exactly the reverse is true. In Accra you don't see many bikes, motorized or not, whereas in India there is an overwhelming number of them. In Holland, there are certainly a lot more bikes than cars and trucks, but not on the scale or proportion of India. Anyhow, here traffic often crawls; drivers are often polite, with a few very aggressive drivers adding spice to the over-all mixture.
People are more allergic to accidents here in Ghana than perhaps anywhere else I've been. It's very interesting what policy can do to public behaviour. For example, in Syria, drawing the attention of the police to yourself always results in misfortune, and so people keep their noses very clean. One time, out in the country, a drug dealer had a farm, and had fortified it, had armed men, etc., Two police officers were shot at when they went out to make some arrests. A helicopter gunship flattened the place killing everyone. So a harsh police system cuts down on visible crime, unless it is, in the case of Syria, crime carried out by the ruling family.
Here in Ghana, the policy towards car accidents is that both parties in the accident have to go through the rigamarole of re-taking their driver examinations. Thus people are even more motivated than usual to avoid car accidents and to settle them privately if they have one. Thus aggressive drivers get away with it, because nobody wants the trouble of being penalized for getting in an accident with one of them.
When it comes to crime, such as burglary or fraud, anyone unfortunate enough to get caught in the act would be very happy to see the police, because they can count on getting a major beating from the affected people, their family, neighbours and friends. Fabian told a story of a man who went around taking pictures of people in his village in Northern Ghana, collecting deposits, and then never coming back to deliver the goods. Unfortunately for him he forgot he'd defrauded this village and some time later came back through. They demanded their money back, which of course he didn't have so they took their satisfaction out on personally beating him, that is each one that had been defrauded got their satisfaction.
Fabian took me for a drive yesterday including through the very crowded central market area. We were in a vehicle without air conditioning so I had my window all the way down despite the crowds packed against the car. One woman said (in her language) "Look at that white guy, he's not afraid of anything!" Evidently white people driven through the market in cars are a bit timid and keep their windows closed and doors locked. I will be going down there later on foot (at Fabian's suggestion) as I'm still looking to pick up local traditional clothing. Of course one needs to be careful of becoming a "mark" or "target", as almost happened already last evening, but my experiences in India and China have helped me recognize the dynamics of these situations as they unfold.
I took Prescott to a small local garage store in search of batteries, but I was concerned he would not get the type right, so turned off the vehicle and went in after him. There was a group of 4 guys lounging to one side and sure enough one of them had situated himself near the vehicle when I was coming back out. He tried to make eye contact at which point I pointedly averted my eyes and walked past him, disappointing him in the process because he could not engage me. I just got in the car with Prescott and left. Body language and use of the eyes is pretty key.
Stella has also suggeted I take public transport up to Wa way up in Northern Ghana, and from there I can stay with a teacher relative of hers and by motorbike travel to the villages of Eremond. We shall see - it looks like it could be a 700km trip!:) http://www.mapsofworld.com/ghana/ghana-political-map.html
In whatever manner, and however I'm guided, the adventure continues. I've been meeting people with training and backgrounds who could contribute big-time to a sustainable agriculture, water conservation project, so it should in fact be a very interesting next few weeks! :)
For what it's worth, I've been given a passing grade by the relatives they had over yesterday for dinner. Evidently I'm not doing too bad at basic cultural niceties like eating Foo Foo with my right hand and keeping my left hand out of circulation. Foo Foo is beaten yams (a large root with white flesh) pounded for more than an hour by Stella's domestic (in a wooden bowl with 6 foot long pestle or pounding stick resulting in a sticky doughy mass served as steamed mounds that you serve in a bowl of soup and meat. The etiquette is to rip or scoop pieces off of the mound, dip them into the soup and scoop the mixture into your mouth with your fingers! Quite appetizing. Oh, and so far, I have yet to hit really hot food! :)
Anyhow, nuff for now!
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